Cuba’s cities, towns and villages vary in size, character, pace, colour and flavour. To help you make the difficult decisions on the kinds of places you most want to see, we have compiled a summary of each key area that we visit. Good luck!

Havana:

“Havana.” The word alone conjures images of cigars, rum, salsa, men in dapper suits, and buildings with grand archways crumbling in the sun. Havana is all this and more; a wondrous mix of the old and the new. Ride a classic Chevrolet convertible along the seaside walk, the Malecon, to the Plaza de San Francisco de Assisi, and from there delve into the narrow streets of Old Havana, where the clatter of carts and cars mixes with the shouts of vendors and the ever-present rumble of a nearby stereo or live band pumping out hip-swinging music. Old Havana is in the midst of transformation; many of the older buildings have been selected for renovation and reconstruction, saving some of these priceless architectural gems from almost certain collapse. These brightly-painted ‘reborn’ homes and shops stand shoulder to shoulder with the older, untouched buildings, providing stark contrast and a photographer’s dream.

Returning to the modern world in Vedado, bars, restaurants and nightclubs stand alongside the packed Coppelia ice cream outlets, where locals queue for hours to get a scoop of the icy good stuff. On the terrace of the grand Hotel Nacional, sip a mojito overlooking the Malecon as the sun sets, enjoying the sea breezes which ease the tropical heat in the evenings, serenaded by a live band. Whatever your Cuban dream, you’re bound to find it in some corner of Havana – all you have to do is look for it.

Cienfuegos:

This often-overlooked little gem of a port sits on the southern coast of Cuba. Cienfuegos is an incredibly well-preserved example of neoclassical architecture, and her wide, beautiful esplanades conjure a sense of Mediterranean Europe. Central Cienfuegos’ grid of streets and blissfully shady colonnaded walkways were recognised by UNESCO as an excellent example of early Spanish colonial urban planning, and were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. Take an early evening walk down the Malecon and continue along the ‘point’ to see some of the grand architecture that the city is known for (including the palacios, which will make your jaw drop), and then reward yourself with harbour views and a sunset drink on the terrace at the yacht club.

Trinidad:

Trinidad has something for everyone; the lively combination of its beaches, restaurants, national parks, thumping nightlife, art galleries, handicrafts markets, Santeria temples, cobblestoned streets and effervescent locals is enough to keep anyone occupied for days or even weeks. Spend an evening at the Palenque de los Congos Reales, soaking up the sounds of son and Afro-Cuban rhythms. Find yourself a quiet corner in a bar of an afternoon and indulge in some people-watching. Join in a game of chess or dominoes, or climb the tower at the Museo de Lucha Contra Bandidos for a bird’s eye view of this historical town. Nearby, the Valley of the Sugar Mills offers insight into the opulent history of Trinidad, where sugar made millionaires of plantation owners before the industry bottomed out in the late 1800s. Many of these plantations still exist today, and though some of them have fallen into ruin they are a fascinating relic of the era, complete with bell towers, slave quarters and, at the Marques de Güaimaro hacienda, original frescoes on the walls.

Camagüey:

Situated in the geographical heart of Cuba, Camagüey is a university town packed to the brim with hip youngsters, cafes and art-filled squares, where people go to see and be seen. It is also, conversely, the spiritual home of the Catholic church in Cuba, graced with no less than 11 colonial churches. Legend has it that the streets were deliberately designed to confuse the newcomer, in an effort to scare off pirates who were thinking of raiding Camagüey’s valuables. Thankfully the pirates are no longer a threat, but there are still many treasures to be found here. Locals say that Camagüey is a city with the atmosphere of a small village; people greet each other on the streets at all turns, and everyone seems to know everyone else. It is definitely a ‘lived-in’ city, and one where you will find your own favourite hotspot.

Santiago:

A large city pulsating with music, heat and humidity, Santiago de Cuba was the home of the Revolution. Fidel Castro gave his first speech as leader of the Cuban people in 1959 from a balcony in Parque Cespedes, ending a long journey that had started with the thwarted attempt to storm the Moncada Barracks in 1953. Opposite this balcony, the imposing Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asuncíon sits like a grand old dame, overlooking the city. During the day, Santiago is full of people constantly on the move, hustling and bustling at breakneck pace, and every night the streets are awash with music of all kinds, pouring from the windows of bars, cafes and the trova houses, home to traditional Cuban music. The narrow roads are lined with stunning examples of time-worn colonial architecture, and the casas particulares of Santiago shine with individuality. Take time to visit the Santa Ifigenia Cemetary, where Cuban national hero José Martí lies, at his request, facing the sun, watched over by his own military honour guard.

Baracoa:

Isolated from the rest of Cuba until the 1960s, when a road was finally built over the mountains, Baracoa was one of the earliest colonial settlements in Cuba. A small town with a big personality, this region was the site of a native rebellion against the Spanish in the 1500s, led by a warrior named Hatuey. Hatuey was eventually caught by the Spanish and burned alive, but not before being given the opportunity to convert to Catholicism and thus go to heaven. Hatuey responded by asking if there were Spaniards in heaven, and the answer was, of course, yes. He then famously announced that he would rather go to hell than spend eternity with the Spanish. His bust now sits opposite the church, glowering across the square at his oppressors. Taking their cue from the feisty Hatuey, Baracoans approach everything from dancing to eating with enthusiastic vigour. Surrounded by plantations, groves and rich farmland, and somewhat thanks to their geographical isolation, Baracoa has developed its own distinctive style of cuisine. Here, you can find seafood in abundance, flavoured with spices and sauces you rarely find elsewhere in Cuba, and locally-grown chocolate and coffee is a favourite.

Viñales:

The small town of Viñales, in Pinar del Rio province, is surrounded by some of the most stunning scenery to be found in Cuba. Large, tree-covered limestone karsts – also known as ‘pincushion’ hills – sprout from the ground, rising to tower above the rolling fields and small farmhouses that dot the countryside. Tobacco is one of the main crops here, and cigars infused with local flavour can be purchased directly from the farmers if you wish. Walks in the countryside and visits to caves are some of the options on offer, and in the evenings this sleepy little town really comes alive. If ever there was a place in Cuba to meet a local and be swept off your chair to dance the salsa, it is here. Live music reigns supreme, and the laid-back, welcoming, friendly locals make you feel right at home.

Maria La Gorda:

Driving to Maria La Gorda, you really get the sense of leaving behind the ‘big smoke’ and heading into isolation. Situated on the extreme south-western tip of Cuba, Maria La Gorda is a haven of palm trees, white sand and azure water. The resort is an international dive centre and the diving is fantastic; depending on the season, you can see turtles nesting, or you can keep an eye out for the black coral which is famous in the region. Alternatively, you can take a cruise to enjoy the views of the sunset over the Caribbean, or visit the nearby Guanahacabibes National Park to spot the smallest bird in the world, the zunzuncito, or bee hummingbird. Of course, if you prefer things at a more leisurely pace, you can just sit back and soak up the sun on the beach, enjoy a drink at the beachside bar, or try your hand at the giant chess set to while away the hours.

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